May 17, 2024 - Classic Italy
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From our hotel terrace, looking north at the Gulf of Naples with Mount Vesuvius on the right. We would be checking out this morning, and heading north to Rome, visiting Pompeii on the way. | ||||||
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Looking down at the fancy hotel pool. Too bad we never went swimming in it.
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I guess every hotel room had the Gulf of Naples view. | ||||||
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We had room 432 I think.
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Looking out the bus window over Sorrento. | ||||||
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In the bus, heading northeast towards Vesuvius. | ||||||
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Goodbye,Sorrento! | ||||||
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Stuck in a traffic jam on the narrow coastal road out of Sorrento. This is the only way in or out.
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We arrive at Pompeii. Our first look. | ||||||
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Bright poppies were everywhere.
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Looking back at the entrance area. Pompeii sits at a higher elevation than the surrounding area. Back in the day, of course, Pompeii was a stand-alone city surrounded by villas and farms. Now it is surrounded by the suburbs. | ||||||
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The city was buried under 13 to 20 ft of volcanic ash and pumice in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. | ||||||
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Largely preserved under the ash, Pompeii offers a unique snapshot of Roman life, frozen at the moment it was buried, as well as insight into ancient urban planning. It was a wealthy town of 10,000 to 20,000 residents at the time it was destroyed. It hosted many fine public buildings and luxurious private houses with lavish decorations, furnishings and artworks, which were the main attractions for early excavators; subsequent excavations have found hundreds of private homes and businesses reflecting various architectural styles and social classes, as well as numerous public buildings. -- Wikipedia | ||||||
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Walking down one of the main streets. I was surprised how large Pompeii was.
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Following its destruction, Pompeii remained largely undisturbed until its rediscovery in the late 16th century. Major excavations did not begin until the mid-18th century, which marked the emergence of modern archeology | ||||||
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Our tour guide at right in the bright orange blouse.
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The eruption lasted for two days. The first phase was of pumice snow lasting about 18 hours, allowing most inhabitants to escape. Only approximately 1,150 bodies have so far been found on site, which seems to confirm this theory, and most escapees probably managed to salvage some of their most valuable belongings.
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At some time in the night or early the next day, pyroclastic flows began near the volcano, consisting of high speed, dense, and scorching ash clouds, knocking down wholly or partly all structures in their path, incinerating or suffocating the remaining population and altering the landscape, including the coastline. It was the sudden, intense heat that killed whoever had made the mistake of not leaving Pompeii. By the evening of the second day, the eruption was over, leaving only haze in the atmosphere through which the sun shone weakly.
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The Forum of Pompeii with the entrances to the Basilica (left), Temple of Jupitor (center left), Macellum (center right), and Mount Vesuvius in the distance at left. | ||||||
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A Centaur stands watch.
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A good shot of the Temple of Jupiter on the right side of the picture with Vesuvius dominating the background. Jupiter was the god of the sky and thunder, and king of the gods in ancient Roman religion and mythology. Jupiter was the chief deity of Roman state religion throughout the Republican and Imperial eras, until Christianity became the dominant religion of the Empire. | ||||||
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The Portico in front of the entrance to the Macellum, the provision market of Pompeii. Yes, it was the Roman grocery store. People gotta eat.
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Another shot of the Forum, looking south. | ||||||
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Surviving Roman art.
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Organic remains, including wooden objects and human bodies, were interred in the ash; their eventual decay allowed archaeologists to pump plaster into the void, and create moulds of figures in their final moments of life. | ||||||
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A multidisciplinary volcanological and bio-anthropological study of the eruption products and victims, merged with numerical simulations and experiments, indicates that at Pompeii and surrounding towns heat was the main cause of death of people, previously believed to have died by ash suffocation. The results of the study, published in 2010, show that exposure to at least 480 °F hot pyroclastic flows at a distance of 6 miles from the vent was sufficient to cause instant death, even if people were sheltered within buildings. |
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Rest in peace. | ||||||
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Walking down one of Pompeii's main streets.
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A smaller side street. | ||||||
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Our guide told us this was a Roman fast-food restaurant. Food was kept hot in those basins and sold over the counter.
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The Romans used a lot of brick!
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A narrow side street. | ||||||
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Via dell'Abbondanza, the main street in Pompeii. | ||||||
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Entrance to the House of the Vettii.
This Donus, or house, is one of the largest in Pompeii, spanning the entire southern section of block 15. The plan is fashioned in a typical Roman domus with the exception of a tablinum (a room generally situated on one side of the atrium and opposite to the entrance, generally the office in a Roman house, the father's centre for business, where he would receive his clients.) This house was reopened to tourists in January 2023 after two decades of restoration.
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Upon entering the House of the Vettii, we immediately entered the Atrium: the principal room of an ancient Roman house, which usually had a central opening in the roof (compluvium) and a rainwater pool beneath it. The atrium passively collected, filtered, stored, and cooled rainwater. It was daylit, passively cooling and ventilating the house. The atrium was the most important room of the ancient Roman house. The main entrance led into it; patrones received their clientes there, and marriages, funerals, and other ceremonies were conducted there. In earlier and more modest homes, the atrium was the common room used for most household activities; in richer homes, it became mainly a reception room, with private life moving deeper into the (larger) house. The atrium was generally the most elaborate room, with the finest finishings, wall paintings, and furnishings. |
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A good look at the rainwater pool.
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What the Atrium might have looked like back in 79 AD.
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Floor layout of the Donus. |
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This is what the Romans called a Peristyle -- a continuous porch formed by a row of columns surrounding the perimeter of a building or a courtyard. | ||||||
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The walls surrounding the Peristyle are painted with art.
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The Peristyle's porch ceiling. | ||||||
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In this room of remarkably well-preserved wall paintings, "The Punishment of Ixion" is at center.
This mythological scene is located on the east wall of the north triclinium, which is located next to the large peristyle. It shows the moment of Ixion, the Lapith King, being punished for betraying Zeus. After being welcomed into Olympus by the god, Ixion grew to lust after Zeus's wife, Hera. After Ixion attempts to seduce her, Zeus creates the cloud goddess Nephele in the image of Hera. Ixion lies with Nephele and their union creates the centaurs. As punishment, Zeus banishes Ixion from Olympus and orders Hermes to tie Ixion to a winged fiery wheel, which is to spin for eternity.
In this scene, Ixion is bound to the wheel and Hermes stands in the forefront, identifiable by his winged sandals and caduceus. Hephaestus stands behind the wheel, one hand resting on the wheel to set it into motion. Hermes, however, also has one hand on the wheel keeping it still as he looks to Hera. Hera is enthroned to the right, holding a long golden scepter and wearing a golden crown. Beside her is her messenger, Iris, extending her arm to present to Hera Ixion's punishment. Hera pulls aside her thin veil to watch the scene. A young woman sits next to Hermes with one hand up. She is identified by scholars as either Ixion's mother or Nephele.
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Roman galleys.
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This picture shows how the brick and morter walls were covered with plaster and then painted. | ||||||
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Oh my! | ||||||
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We next moved to the House of the Faun, which had this large Peristyle. The end of the Roman domus is one mark of the extinction of late antiquity. Simon P. Ellis wrote in the American Journal of Archaeology that it represented "the disappearance of the Roman peristyle house marks the end of the ancient world and its way of life." "No new peristyle houses were built after A.D. 550." Noting that as houses and villas were increasingly abandoned in the fifth century, a few palatial structures were expanded and enriched, as power and classical culture became concentrated in a narrowing class, and public life withdrew to the basilica, or audience chamber, of the magnate. |
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Working on a mosaic in the House of the Faun. | ||||||
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But not just any mosaic. This mosaic is a reproduction of the famous Alexander Mosaic, a Roman floor mosaic that originally came from this house, the House of the Faun. It is typically dated between c. 120 and 100 BCE and depicts a battle between the armies of Alexander the Great and Darius III of Persia. This work of art is a combination of different artistic traditions such as Italic, Hellenistic, and Roman. The mosaic is considered Roman based on the broader context of its time and location in relation to the later Roman Republic. The original is preserved in the National Archaeological Museum, Naples. The mosaic is believed to be a copy of a late 4th or early 3rd-century BCE Hellenistic painting, perhaps by Philoxenus of Eretria or Apelles. |
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This mosaic featured a rare picture of Alexander the Great. | ||||||
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What the original Alexander Mosaic, also known as the Battle of Issus Mosaic, looks like now in the National Archaeological Museum, Naples. The mosaic is made of about one and a half million tiny colored tiles, arranged in gradual curves. The color scale of Roman mosaics are extremely rich in gradation. The process of gathering materials for mosaics was a complex undertaking since the color scale was based solely on the pieces of marble that could be found in nature. Following the style of many other Hellenistic artists, the entire mosaic is composed of reds, yellows, black, and white. The mosaic is an unusually detailed work for a private residence and was likely commissioned by a wealthy person or family. Since the mosaic was arranged on the floor where the patron could receive guests, it was the first decorative object a visitor would see upon entering that room. The Alexander Mosaic was preserved due to the volcanic ash that collected over the mosaic during the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in the city of Pompeii in 79 CE. This Roman artwork was found inlaid into the ground of the House of the Faun in between two open peristyles. The House of the Faun was a large estate comprising one whole block in Pompeii; this is an area of about 3,000 square meters. |
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A close-up of Alexander the Great (356 - 323 BC) in the original mosaic. The mosaic was rediscovered in 1831 in Pompeii, Italy, and was later transported to Naples in September 1843.
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The Romans were big on mosaics. | ||||||
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Roman art.
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Pompeii is among the most popular tourist attractions in Italy, with approximately 2.5 million visitors annually. I can see why. | ||||||
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Walking down one of the main streets.
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Passing through the Forum again. The crowds had increased noticeably on our way out. |
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Our guide explaining something about the Forum.
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The lone Roman sentinal looks south amongst the ruins. | ||||||
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Most Pompei artifiacts are in the Naples National Archaeological Museum but Pompei does have its own small museum. Unfortunately, we did not have time to go through it; one of the disadvantages to being in a tour group.
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Judging from this map, I figure we maybe got to see 25% of Pompeii on our four-hour tour. In addition to the museum, we didn't get to see the amphitheatre, or large theatre. That said, we really enjoyed seeing Pompeii and would like to come back someday and spend an entire day here. |
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Returning back to our tour bus, one among many. Tony, our overall tour guide, is at left.
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The Last Day of Pompeii. Painting by Karl Brullov, 1830–1833. | ||||||
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An aerial picture of Pompeii with Vesuvius in the background. The large and small theatres are in the foreground.
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